I sold $80,000 in stocks to buy a Ram 3500 that I’ve decided to pass on. I feel like I’m too exposed to stocks so looking to stay in cash. I’d consider a 6 month maximum CD or similar product since I’d like to have access to the cash in case the market tanks.
Mason jars in the backyard.
I’ll send you my address.
Send me $10,000 first so I can tell if serious. Few places where you can 8x your money in a week!
I got an email from a prince in Nigeria.
That’s what I was looking for, thanks weenut.
I only have 100 shares of Boeing but I am NOT amused lately. It was $250 in December, now at $201.
We’ve used the Ford Advantage money market for years, it’s over 5% right now.
My local bank is offering 5.5% CDs.
I have some cash stashed into SPAXX at Fidelity that is nearly 5%.
For the love of god, don’t leave this is cash. This will earn about $333/mo at a 5% yield. The issue is this is taxable so you really only end up with 3% after tax. Inflation is still well above 3% so you are loosing. To be fair your losing less than you would have for buying a new Ram truck for 80K.
Why did you back out? Do you still have plans to go RVing?
I ordered a 3500 dually that got fender damage in transport. Dealer had it repaired but wouldnt extend a discount to take delivery and that got me thinking about the whole idea. I believe in fate to some extent, things happen for a reason.
I have a 32’ TT, need to do a few weeks in that and make sure i want to go in deeper with a Fifth wheel. Im looking at a 250k investment between truck and fifth wheel. Id lose 100k+ if i gave up the hobby.
I love camping in my TT. I dream about travelling full time or near full time. The issue I currently have is lack of time.
I pull mine with my F350. My wife recently bought a F150 with the max towing. On paper it should tow it just fine but I haven’t tried it yet. My F350 has a tow rating of 16,000# and I have towed much more than that with zero issues. The F150 is rated to tow 12,000#. I don’t think that it is a good idea to push it to the limits. My TT only weighs about 7,500# loaded.
What do you currently tow with? Do you use a WDH? I don’t use on with my F350. Its just silly to me. IMO if you need to use a WDH, you need a bigger truck. I find it interesting that campers is the only industry that uses them.
I personally would not buy a modern diesel. The emissions is just insane and crazy costly to maintain. For much less than 80K you can get a really nice pre 2008 diesel without all the crazy obama epa requirements. Also, while dodge does have the best diesel engine, the rest of the trucks are not as durable. Probably the best truck would be a F350 Fummings (Cummings 5.9 swapped Ford). These kinds of Frankenstein are not really for the non mechanical type.
My ram 1500 is just shy of 12k towing cap. My TT is 32 foot and probably about 7500lbs, i tow it with a ProPride hitch and i feel im definitely maxed out.
Ill use this setup for 6 months and at that point decide to go all the way in with a 5th wheel or maybe go a little smaller with a couples model TT. My winnie is a bunkhouse which is okay for storing stuff but i dont have kids.
Because you probably are maxed out on the payload. Payload is the critical measurement when determining how much you can tow. You often will max your payload before you max the trailer. The biggest benefit to the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks is they have huge amount of payload. Payload will be driver + passengers + gear + tongue weight. Your truck probably has something like 1800-2000# payload. You have 800# tongue weight + 100# hitch weigh + people, dogs, and stuff. You will max out your suspension pretty quickly. The difference between 1/2 ton and 3/4+ is night an day when towing a camper. No more white knuckle driving when its windy, no more struggling to climb hills, huge brakes that will quickly stop your load, dually is a bonus for extra stability and traction.
Id imagine your half ton probably gets less than 10 MPG while towing your camper. The downside is your big truck will get worse mileage when not towing. If you do buy a new and bigger truck, get the extra capacity gas tank.
My brother bought one of those Mercedes’ RV’s and thought it was a great idea. They took the grandkids to Yellowstone and drove to the east coast (where the grandkids live) aa couple of times =. He’s ready to sell it . HE said that it was difficult driving…and once you got to a campground you had to work at hooking up water and sewage and whatever else and they lost interest in it after a couple of years. Some people love RVing and some find it more work than vacation.```````````````````
There are RV vrbo’s now where you rent the camper and they come and hookup and take away for you.
Yes, but considering it takes two days to drive from Colorado Springs to KC…and you still have to get to Pennsylvania, you either hook up and take down every travel day, or you stay in a hotel, which kind of defeats the purposel.
Or its sitting at a long term site they own or rent. You stay for a weekend and its amazing but you never had to touch a sewer hose or level and hook up the trailer. Not a true representation of camping.
There are RV vrbo’s now where you rent the camper and they come and hookup and take away for you.
I am considering this at Yellowstone this summer. I want to stay closer to nature where there is no cell service or internet. I don’t have the time to make a 3 day drive there and 3 days home. Not to mention towing to Yellowstone would take about $1,200 in fuel. I can almost fly the family for that. I would like to take my own stuff that I will be limited to if I fly.
Yes, but considering it takes two days to drive from Colorado Springs to KC…and you still have to get to Pennsylvania, you either hook up and take down every travel day, or you stay in a hotel, which kind of defeats the purposel
If your driving through and just sleeping, you don’t have much setup. It doesn’t have to be perfectly level and everything else. If I was doing this just for a night of sleep, I probably wouldn’t unhook the truck.
I believe Fidelity sells T-Bills, T-Notes, individual bonds, and CDs. I think Treasury Direct requires you to hold bonds to maturity instead of being able to sell them.
T-Bills are especially nice where I live because of the 8% state income tax rate in Maryland. Muni bonds are good if you are in a high federal bracket. A 5% CD of the same term is equivalent to a 4.6% T-Bill
I like being able to sell Fidelity bonds or CDs, get my cash and reinvest somewhere more appealing. Dollar cost averaging might be a good idea too